Vary the Beeswax up or down for a patch lube
or bullet lube. I melt the Beeswax in a Pyrex Measuring cup in the microwave.
Then add the Ballistol, stir, and pour into a plastic microwavable container
to cool. It can easily be re-melted to adjust the mixture.
The rich, pungent, aroma of the Ballistol adds
to the enjoyment.
Jack Roberts, silhoutte4570
"Great For Hot, Dry Conditions" -
sourced from Dan Theodore
Ingredients, Procedures, Notes, etc.
All measures are by volume.
4 parts refined beeswax
2 parts LubeGard's "Valve and Assembly Lubricant"
2 parts anhydrous lanolin.
5 parts refined beeswax
3 parts LubeGard
2 parts anhydous lanolin. "This makes a dandy lube for dry, hot conditions."
Note: LubeGard should be available at any NAPA
Auto Supply store.
Note: Refined beeswax and anhydrous lanolin are available from: http://www.from-nature-with-love.com/soap/.
Melt the beeswax and anhydrous lanolin in a double boiler. Once both are
well melted, add the LubeGard and stir for a minute. This lube works well
for pan-lubing, as well as through a lube-sizer.
"Emmerts" - provided
by Ken Hurst
This is an old lube but still has a following
and has never failed me when using it for Black Powder. I understand it
can be used for smokeless if you are using low-pressure loads.
50% bees wax
40% Crisco or lard
10% canola oil
I heat this in a dbl boiler to mix. Do not heat
in a micro wave as it offers too much heat usually. I fill my lubasizer
with the lube while it is hot and it works well. I have also pan lubed
with good success.
"1995 Lube" - sourced
from Paul Matthews
2 parts yellow beeswax
1 part Pure Neatsfoot Oil
1 part Murphy’s Oil Soap
(easy to make in 8-oz batches)
1) Melt 4 oz of beeswax in the microwave. Usually
6-8 minutes is about the right time.
2) Stir in 2 oz of Neatsfoot oil when beeswax is melted. Stir until the
mixture is lumpfree.
3) Stir in 2 oz of Murphy’s Oil Soap, stirring continuously as the
soap is added. Again, mix until there are no lumps.
4) Pour into storage containers as soon as batch is well mixed.
Very soft and sticky. Will not melt in the sun,
but works well in the cold, too. NOT suitable for pan lubing.
“Shows Promise Lube” - sourced
from Paul Matthews
8 oz Yellow Beeswax
4 fl oz Pure Neatsfoot Oil
1 cake (3 .5 oz) Neutrogena Facial Soap
1) melt the beeswax over a low fire
2) stir in the neatsfoot oil until lumpfree
3) cut the soap into fine peels, then add to the melted mixture.
Don’t boil the mixture. A very sticky bullet
lube. Looks to be very good.
Here are some bullet lubes I have used with very
good results in the hot shooting weather of the west. - Mystery Guest
13 oz of beeswax
5 oz of peanut oil
1/2 stick of 50/50 alox
1 oz of anhydrous lanolin
6 oz of beef tallow
4 oz bayberry wax
2 oz beeswax
2 oz synthetic sperm oil
1 heaping teaspoon of Moly
6 oz of beeswax
3 oz of bayberry wax
6 oz of bacon grease
1 tablespoon of Dawn soap
2 tablespoon of neatsfoot oil
30% conola oil
......................this looks and feels a lot like SPG
20% Avocado oil
......................this is good for cooler weather, spring/fall
Emmerts – for Texas Heat - source unknown
10% jojoba by volume
.......................this lube will not foul
a .45-2.6 34” barrel
One part clean beeswax
Three parts rendered and refined deer tallow
One part stale canola oil (kitchen reject don't you know)
Powdered graphite (I don't think the graphite play much of a part as it
settled out in cooling)
I just shot my C.Sharps hunting gun (74) for the first time at any distance
two weeks ago and got a three and a half inch 4 shot group at 300 measued
yards with this lube, a Saeco 411 gr 40 cal. bullet silver blade front
sight and C. Sharps 108 hunting tang sight cranked up as high as it would
go. I would have gone for more rounds but I ran out after walking them
up on to the target. I had never shot it farther than 100 yards before.
It is a 40-70 SS and I used 70 gr by volume of older Goex 2f. I'm a little
worried about the powder. I store it in a chicken coop in a styrofoam
cooler and when I tried to pour it out of the can there were big lumps
in it. I had to shake the heck out of it to break up the lumps. It has
been froze and thawed on and off for at least 5 years maybe longer. I
bought it from Coonie's back when Goex was $6.03 per can in case lots
with shipping. I used this lube to kill a couple of deer and to shoot
bowling pins and steel targets in the yard.
Another traditional one I like.
(I substitute jojoba for sperm whale oil.)
One part clean beeswax
Three parts rendered then refined buffalo tallow
One part Jojoba oil (killed a buffalo with this one)
Cold weather muzzle loader patch lube is:
Two parts rendered then refined coon oil (two coons will
provide a quart or more of rendered oil and good barbeque plus 20 bucks
for the hides)
One part buffalo tallow (this lube melts as you rub it into the patch
even below zero)
After I render oils and fats I recook them with water
for a while then let them cool until they crust over. I break the floating
disc off the water and scrape off the dirt and jelly like junk that clings
to the bottom of the disc. I do this to try to eliminate any naturally
occuring salts in the animal fat. I used to bear oil my muzzle loaders
and they'd rust over night in a damp tent until I started water cooking
the salt outa the fat.